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Nikolai

Weingut Nikolai

Erbach, Rheingau
heinznikolai.de

Vineyard area: 12 ha
Best sites: Erbacher Steinmorgen, Erbacher Siegelsberg, Erbacher Michelmark, Kiedricher Sandgrub und Hallgartener Jungfer
Soils: Loess and quartzite
Viticulture: Sustainable

The Weingut Nikolai grows mostly Riesling, along with Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) and Sauvignon Blanc. The Erbacher Honigberg Riesling Feinherb is the first of the Nikolai wines I have tasted. The label says that it is feinherb and if you look closely you may indeed find that lace of sweetness that keeps it from being labeled as a dry wine.

Erbacher Honigberg Riesling Feinherb 2006

Pale lemon straw color. Youthful nose, medium intensity of lemon zest, green apple and hints of yellow pear. Dry, medium acidity, alcohol and body. Medium intensity of dried fruit, candied pear and minerality. Short length.

Labeled only as a QbA it is an entry-level Riesling - easy to drink, not too demanding. But it is well-made. The fruit intensity and the level of acidity are in harmony. A good value at this price and certainly a good choice for a picnic or light dinner. It simply doesn't have the complexity that is often found in Riesling wines. But then, complexity is hardly something one should be looking for in a wine of this price category. I had it with a salmon steak, spinach and pasta tossed in browned caper butter. The Honigberg held up to the salmon's heavy omegas and turned out to be quite a decent companion.

Average - good
Alc: 11%. Price: $14. Tasted: 11/2007
















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