Ansgar Clüsserath

Trittenheim, Mosel

Vineyard area: 4 ha (90% Riesling)
Best sites: Trittenheimer Apotheke

There are many Clüsseraths in Trittenheim. For Eva Clüsserath, who is the winemaker at her father's domain, it's all about the stones, it seems. Slate, to be precise. The vineyards around Trittenheim are steep and consist primarily of schiefer, as it's called in German. That slate is what Eva Clüsserath is trying to capture in her minerality-rich wines that at the same time please the palate with invigorating fruit and acidity. One thing I particularly admire about her wines is their seemingly effortless harmony of flavors, acidity and sweetness. A filigree balance serves as the canvas on which flavors draw a picture of the vineyard. A picture with saturated colors from the Trittenheimer Apotheke.

The winemaking approach is rather traditional: natural yeasts are given enough time for a slow fermentation, which happens in large old wooden casks. The wines have a strong backbone and the Spätlese seems almost full-bodied despite its low alcohol content of 8.5%. These are exciting wines.

Tasting Notes

Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese 2005

Medium straw color. The first sniff is quite sulphuric. After a few minutes in the glass the aromas are very mineralic, almost like rusty metal. And hints of bruised apple. Pleasantly unappealing at first, then this chunk of fruit. Sweet on the palate, but with a very refreshing acidity. Yet a creamy mouthfeel. Medium body, despite the low alcohol. Medium intensity of primarily herbal flavors. Red currants, citrus fruit, peach and honey join in after a little aeration in the glass. And then again this raw minerality. Medium to long length.

A perfectly balanced wine, with an utterly pleasant play of youthfulness upon the heavy minerality. Ready to drink but will keep for 10+ years. I recommend decanting.

Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett 2005

Pale lemon color. Clean, youthful nose with pronounced aromas of grapefruit, peach, fermented cabbage (from the lees?), hay and minerality (flint). Sweet. Medium(+) acidity, medium(-) body, soft mouthfeel. Medium intensity of grapefruit, lemon, minerality and soft peach on the finish. Medium length.

A very elegant Kabinett, with rather rustic aromas of fermented cabbage but a smooth mouthfeel of peach and grapefruit. The finish has a slight, nice bitterness to it, accentuating the grapefruit flavours. Good balance of acidity and fruit. Drink now or keep 7-10 years.