Two for the road

I've been feeling guilty for quite a while because Riesling from Australia has been so under-represented. I admit that tasting notes for two wines is a meager attempt to remedy that, but at least it's a start and I am determined to add more Australian Riesling to my list in the near future.

The wines I picked are both from Western Australia, albeit one's from Margaret River, the other from Frankland River.

First of all, I was surprised about how similar the wines were. I tasted the Leeuwin first and when I opened and had a sip of the Alkoomin I was puzzled and had to double-check to make sure that I was indeed drinking a different wine. Of course, there were some differences, but they were so minute that I thought I was tasting only one wine. Which is not really a plea for the idea of terroir in Australian Riesling. I suspect cultured yeasts to be the main culprit, both estates using the same strain of yeasts, giving off a rather unnatural candied fruit flavor.

Not sure what to do with so much candied fruit I decided to decant the Alkoomi for a half hour. I am believer in decanting and often decant young Kabinetts from the Mosel, but it never occurred to me that a Riesling might as well benefit from a bit of oxidation. In this case, decanting meant decandying. The pear and apricot fruit tasted more natural now and overall the wine now had a distinctive spice character.

Both wines would make perfect picnic wines. Take them on the road and open them sitting under the shade of a tree on a sunny day and you may not notice that the fruit tastes a touch too manufactured. Instead you will love the freshness of your drink.

Alkoomi Riesling 2006

Pale lemon color with a green tint. Youthful nose with a medium intensity of candied fruit, minerality, apricot and smoke aromas. Hints of dairy. Dry on the palate. Medium(+) acidity, medium alcohol and body. Medium intensity of citrus fruit and minerality. Short length with a peppery finish. Drink now or keep until 2010-12.

A very clean, almost too clean, Riesling. Acidity and minerality cut through sharply. But cut through what? There is so little fruit left. It's a shame that the level of minerality does not have much to partner with. Alcohol and acidity are well-balanced and make for a refreshing picnic wine.

Leeuwin Art Series Riesling 2005

Pale lemon color with a green tint. Youthful nose with a medium intensity of candied pear, minerality and citrus flowers aromas. Hints of dairy. Dry on the palate. Medium acidity, alcohol and body. Medium(-) intensity of canned fruit (pear, apple) and minerality. Short length. Drink now or keep until 2010.

Fruit, acidity and alcohol are balanced, but rather simplistic on mid-palate. Refreshing summer wine thanks to its minerality, but the fruit seems already to be fading.