Sauerkraut with wurst and Riesling

The Cinderella of Haut Cuisine

There is a natural bond between Sauerkraut and wine: both are the product of fermentation. But that is not the only reason why Sauerkraut and wine are an excellent match. This Sauerkraut recipe calls for a lot of meat: speck, smoked bacon, sausage, all of which benefit from the crisp acidity of a Riesling. The word Sauerkraut is German and means sour cabbage. But a spicy Gewurztraminer from Alsace may work equally well, as it provides a balance to the strong flavors imparted by the juniper berries and caraway seeds.

With the help of bacteria the sugar content of finely shredded cabbage is converted into lactic acid, giving it a sour taste. But even if the smell may be off-putting for some people, there is no doubt that Sauerkraut is healthy. It is rich in vitamin C, A and B. It's a main ingredient in German and Polish cuisine and a dish you will find on every menu in Alsace. Then there is also the wonderful kimchi, the spicy Korean version of fermented cabbage.

Purists with a hermetically sealed basement can make their own fermented cabbage from scratch. I tend to buy the sauerkraut in a 3 lb glass container at The Polish Place, a Polish restaurant and grocery store on Staten Island. The German brand Hengstenberg is also of very good quality and comes in a can, but it's rather difficult to find here in the US (try Schaller & Weber in Manhattan). Whichever brand you end up using, it's important that the kraut has not been sweetened.

The German Schlachtplatte ("slaughter plate") traditionally is served with liver sausage, blood sausage and a piece of ham or bacon, with mashed potatoes on the side. In the similar Alasatian choucroute, the blood sausage is usually replaced with something less dramatic. For this recipe cured sausages from the Polish deli were used.

Riesling adds a wonderful richness to this dish but a mere cup of it is just not enough. Pour a little in your glass for sipping while cooking and add the rest of the bottle to the kraut. Any Riesling which is dry and has a vibrant acidity will add freshness to the semi-soft cooked cabbage. I use German Kabinett Riesling or Alsatian Riesling. Both are excellent choices.

Caraway seeds are considered somewhat exotic in American cuisine. The amount of one tea spoon is on the low side. If you are not afraid of caraway seeds, add a table spoon. Together with the juniper berries they can lift a dish into sylvan heights.

Sauerkraut with wurst and Riesling

• 3 lb. fermented Sauerkraut
• 1 bottle of Riesling (dry or off-dry)
• water (same amount as wine)
• 2 large sausages (of the kind shown in the picture)
• 1/2 lb. smoked bacon, cut in 1/2in slices
• 1 large onion, sliced
• 2-3 cloves of garlic
• 2 tbs olive oil or bacon fat
• 8-10 juniper berries
• 3 bay leaves
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 tsp caraway seeds
• salt and pepper

Heat olive oil or bacon fat in a large pot. Add onion, half of the garlic and bacon. Fry with until the onion is lightly browned. Slightly crush the juniper berries and caraway seeds and add to the pot, along with the bay leaves. Pour 2 cups of the wine and in the pot and let simmer for 10 minutes (see picture to the left).

Add the kraut, the rest of the wine and the amount of water which is needed to fully submerge the kraut in liquid. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2 hrs until the kraut gets just slightly darker in color and softer in texture. During the last 30 minutes add the sausage, either whole, if it fits in the pot, or cut in pieces. Serve with mashed potatoes.

Blood sausage or any other kind of smoked meats (ham, bacon) all go well with sauerkraut. Be adventurous.