Muster 2002 Sgaminegg Morillon

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Just reading the back label of Muster's 2002 Sgaminegg Morillon tells me that I am about to drink a probably unusual wine.

This is what the back label reads. Living wine. We are told about the soil from which the vine's roots picked up the nutrients and the name of the person who helped the wine come into being. Is there anything else we need to know? Maybe: Weingut Muster is biodynamic and all wines are vinified using natural yeasts from the vineyards and the winery.

The medium golden color is a visual hint that the wine has already developed to a certain degree. And indeed it has. Aromas of quince, grapefruit, orange marmalade and hay. And a hint of oak. Not overwhelming, rather complementing the wines earthiness.

"Living wine grown on South Styrian
opok soil. Vinified by Sepp Muster."

It is dry on the palate and has medium acidity that balances both the medium alcohol and body. A silky mouthfeel adds texture. The flavor intensity is more pronounced, full of of bitter orange marmalade, licorice, pear, herbs, pepper and oak. Long length with a spicy finish.

Very complex and so incredibly well balanced. Judiciously integrated oak that enhances the individual flavor compounds, instead of condemning them into toasted darkness.

Very jammy nose of ripe apple aromas on the day after opening, quite different from the impression of bitter fruit stone fruit and grapefruit, which I got on the first day. The ripe fruit, silky mouthfeel and brooding spices conjure up a sun-drenched late morning day in an open field, without the extreme heat of the afternoon. A wine to sit down and reflect upon.