White riot
A young wine region takes hold of the stones.
The 2-day tasting event had been organized by the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance, a not-for-profit organization formed in 2002, which represents the wineries of the Finger Lakes AVA. The tastings and seminars were held at some of the participating wineries, the wines being served against a backdrop of spectacular views over the climate-tempering deep lakes that make growing vines possible in this northerly climate.
There are 102 producers in the Finger Lakes, farming a total of 11,000 acres, of which 600+ acres are planted with Riesling. The total yearly production of Riesling in the Finger Lakes is only about 100,000 cases, coming mostly from producers with fairly small vineyard holdings. But as elsewhere in the United States, Riesling, which is already the Finger Lakes' stronghold, is further gaining acreage. Riesling is only second to Pinot Noir in regard to volume growth in the United States during the last 12 months. In the Finger Lakes it is primarily the French Hybrids that are being replaced by new Riesling plantings. Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Cellars just announced a new Riesling N90 clone in their vineyards near Keuka Lake.
Most wineries in the Finger Lakes offer two styles of Riesling, a dry and an off-dry version (usually labeled as semi-dry). A few wineries make icewine and an even smaller number make sweet late harvest wines. Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard is the lone producer of a bunch select late harvest Riesling, which is equivalent to the German Trockenbeerenauslese style. But what is new in 2007 is that the first vineyard names appear on Riesling labels from the Finger Lakes. The concept of single vineyard bottlings is not new and a few regular dry or semi-dry Riesling bottlings from previous vintages have been single vineyard bottlings, but they have not been labeled as such. This seems to be changing as some vineyards or vineyard plots have proven to be superior year after year and producers have become more confident to identify these vineyards on the label. Hermann J. Wiemer labels .... So far there are only a handful of wines with a single vineyard declaration, but it is worth seeking them out.
The question was raised whether producers from the Cayuga Lake should market their own, smaller AVA or stick with the encompassing Finger Lakes AVA. Fred Frank from Dr. Frank's Vinifera Cellars suggested that an additional Keuka Lake AVA is needed, because of Keuka's unique mesoclimate within the Finger Lakes region (the slopes are steeper and higher elevated). Some winemakers voiced concerns that naming sub-AVAs on the label may confuse the consumer and the region should first establish itself before trying to push its sub-regions.
Not so Riesling
My destiny is a thread spun, measured and cut by Bacchus while he was curiously enjoying a glass of Riesling. Yet I should mention that I also tasted other whites and red wines, too, during those two days. The Finger Lakes produce a wide range of wines (too wide perhaps). If Riesling thrives so well in the Finger Lakes, it makes sense that varieties encountered in other wine regions with a continental climate should also be found in the north of New York. Chardonnay is grown both for still and sparkling wines. I tasted a barrel-fermented Chardonnay 2006 from Ravines Wine Cellars, made from partially de-hydrated grapes. Winemaker Morten Hallgren dried the grapes for his Chardonnay on straw mats in his garage, thus concentrating the flavors in the berries. The result is a boldly flavored Chardonnay, which spent several months on its lees to balance the fruit concentration with fruit freshness. Buttery apple, walnuts and a touch of vanilla dominated the full-bodied flavor profile. In comparison, Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Cellar's Chardonnay 2006 was much lighter in style with citrus fruit dominating the palate. There was only a hint of new oak and an exciting touch of lusciousness.
Speaking of Dr. Konstantin Frank, their Rkatseteli 2006 is the best vintage of this unusual East European variety so far, showing a beautifully floral aroma, mouthwatering acidity and a gracious mineral backbone.
Shaw Vineyards made a very good Sauvignon Blanc in 2007. It had an attractively pronounced nose of elderflower, which added a floral lightness to the ripe grapefruit flavors on the palate.
It is a popular belief amongst wine experts (in particular those who have never been to the Finger Lakes) that the only red variety worth growing in such a cool climate is Baco Noir. This is not true. Red Newt's 1999 Merlot had a complex nose of cherry, smoke and earthy aromas. Ripe tannins, jammy red berry fruit and somber tobacco notes demonstrated how well this wine had aged.
Another red variety that seems to be doing very well in the Finger Lakes is Cabernet Franc. Dr. Konstantin Frank's 2001 Cabernet Franc had graciously aged over the years, shedding its herbaceous character and showing black cherry fruit and vibrant spice instead.
Heart & Hands Wine Company, hitherto unbknownst to me, poured a barrel sample of their 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir. The grapes from the Eastern Shore of Seneca Lake were harvested at very low yields (30 hl/ha) and gently pressed using a vertical hydraulic basket press (a method rarely found outside of the Champagne region in France). At the time of tasting the wine had spent a little over a year in primarily new French oak barrels. It's a distinctly New World Pinot Noir with flowery fruit aromas, cherry flavors, ripe tannins and well-integrated oak. Hands & Heart plan to bottle this plush Pinot Noir in April 2009. Only 150 cases will be made.
Eat we must
The Finger Lakes are infused with talent from the Culinary Institute of America, which is situated close to the Finger Lakes along the Hudson River. It is a blessing not only for the region but also for people like me who like to drink wine with local food. Many of the chefs in the Finger Lakes took the word 'local' quite literary and cook with ingredients raised or grown at farms nearby, thus supporting the idea of a truly regional cuisine. Visiting gastronomes may receive considerable stimulation from the fact that some of the wine lists feature Finger Lakes wines no longer for sale at the wineries. Red Newt Bistro alone offers more than 70 (!) different Rieslings on its wine list along with other whites and reds from the region (including their own wonderful 1999 Merlot). At the bistro I had a pan seared duck breast with a cranberry red wine demi-glaze, which was served with forest mushrooms and a roasted garlic bread pudding. I can still recall the shock and brief pause after the first bite - never before had I eaten a duck so tender and so tastingly paired with well-chosen side dishes. The wines from the Finger Lakes with their higher levels of acidity are perfect food companions. The celery root soup with bacon and green apple served at the Fox Run Café was a successful mélange of earthy and fruity flavors, which were harmoniously orchestrated by Heron Hills's slightly off-dry 2005 Ingle Vineyard Riesling.
2007 - an excellent year
The wines from the Finger Lakes are slowly gaining recognition from both consumers and critics. The excellent 2007 vintage will help convince some skeptics that this region offers not only pleasant every-day wines but also complex wines with a sturdy acidic backbone and fine minerality that can be put away in a cellar fifteen years or more. The fact that more vinifera vines are replacing native labrusca and French hybrid vines means that more time and effort is dedicated to wine that can actually compete with the wines from around the world. At the same time, we consumers should stop comparing the Finger Lakes with the Mosel, the Rheingau or Alsace. The region has a character of its own and the Finger Lakes AVA should just emphasize that.
My tasting notes of the Finger Lakes 2007 vintage
