Der Kellermeister - Riesling and I
Riesling + I

From Jura to Napa Valley

Overnoy, Argiolas, Heredia, Schoffit, L'Olivette, Bennett Lane, Alberto Longo, Provenance
Not so Riesling

A group of seven people. Everyday wine drinkers, none who can boast an "MW" attached to their name or pride themselves with more than 4 posts on erobertparker.com. The commonality: the love (and curiosity) for wine.

Everybody brought a bottle of wine (some brought two) and wrapped it in a brown bag. There was no theme other than: bring what you like. Only 2 out of the 8 wines had alcohol levels below 13%, the highest having been a Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley (surprise, surprise) with 15.2%.



Pierre Overnoy

Pierre Overnoy: Pupillin Arbois Chardonnay 2004

Jura, France

The distinct aromas of burnt matches and sulphur came as a surprise as this wine is one of the few unsulphured ones. Wines from Jura are unique and Overnoy's Chardonnay is a piece of art, a shining example of creating something unique with a variety that all too often stands for mediocrity. Few loved it, but everyone agreed that it is unusual and interesting - a typical sign of works of true artistry.

Slightly cloudy, lemon color. Youthful nose with a pronounced smoky aroma, burnt matches, hovering over a core smell of fermented cabbage and citrus fruit. Very mineral, too. Dry palate, with high acidity, medium body and alcohol. Pronounced mineral flavors. Distinct herbal character with notes of hazelnut. Medium (+) length. Decanted for 45 minutes prior to tasting.

Vinification.: No sulphur added, no fining, no filtering
Alc.: 12.5%


Argiolas Costamolino

Argiolas Costamolino 2006

Sardegna, Italy

Grapes were hand picked and then fermented in stainless steel with partial malolactic fermentation, contributing to a creamy mouthfeel.

Youthful floral, candy-like nose. Dry palate, but the strong floral aspect gives it a slightly sweet nuance. Medium acidity. Full body and high alcohol. The palate is predominantly dried fruit (apricot, mango) with creamy peach and again floral notes. I had never tasted a Vermentino before and mistook it as a Chenin Blanc. Sturdy, but not heavy.

Grapes: 90% Vermentino, 10% other Sardinian varieties
Alc.: 13.5%


Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia

Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rose 1995

Rioja Alta, Spain

A family-owned bodega that even has its own cooperage. All wines undergo long maturation in barrel before they are being bottled, in this case the rosado aged for 4 years and was bottled unfiltered.

Pale salmon color leaning towards copper. Beautifully developed nose of a pronounced floral bouquet. Dry on the palate, with medium(+) acidity, medium body and alcohol. Nutty flavors mixed with fresh strawberry and peach. Long length. A perfectly balanced and complex rose, still very young and fresh tasting. Drink now or keep for another 2-3 years.

Grapes: Tempranillo, Garnacha and Viura
Alc.: 12%


Schoffit

Schoffit Gewurztraminer "Harth" Cuvée Caroline 1994

Alsace, France

This is not from Schoffit's Grand Cru vineyard in Rangen, but from Harth, a lieux-dit (named vineyard) of recognized quality.

Amber color. Developed nose of bitter orange and honey, spices and ripe peach. Dry palate, medium acidity, body and alcohol. Medium intensity of honey flavors and bitter citrus fruit, orange peel, but very mellow due to its age. Spice and bitterness have also aged harmoniously. Medium(+) length with alcohol becoming more noticeable in the finish. At its peak, drink now.

Alc.: 13.5%


Domaine de L'Olivette Bandol 2001

Domaine de L'Olivette Bandol 2001

Bandol, France

Hand-picked, with a total yield of only 36 hl/ha. Aged in wooden casks for 18-24 months, then aged for another 12-24 months in bottle.

Dark ruby color. Jammy plum and cigar aromas, quite beefy on the nose. Dry, medium acidity. Medium(+) amount of ripe grainy tannins. Medium body. Pronounced intensity of black cherries and cigar box, very inky. Medium(+) length with a smoky finish. It's ready to drink but can age for another 5-10 years. The wine's aroma suggests it in a very straightforward way: drink this wine with a steak and taste symbiosis.

Grapes: 65% Mourverdre, rest is Cinsault and Grenache
Alc.: 15%


Bennett Lane

Bennett Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2002

Napa Valley, USA

A political wine for all Staten Islanders as Bennett Lane is an official sponsor of NASCAR. Where the two meet conceptually I have no idea.

Dark ruby color. Pronounced aromas of dark berries and vanilla. Dry, medium acidity. Medium amount of ripe tannins. Pronounced intensity of jammy , soft plum and cherry flavors. Medium(+) length with a sweet vanilla finish. The alcohol is very well integrated, giving the soft and plush flavor profile a profound basis. Elegant wine. Drink now or keep through 2015.

Alc.: 15.2%


Alberto Longo

Alberto Longo "Le Cruste" 2005

Puglia, Italy

The heel of the Italian boot is an underrated wine region. Mostly known for Negroamaro and Primitivo. However, "Le Cruste" is 100% Nero di Troia, a late-ripening variety in decline. Which is a shame, because Alberto Longo shows how substantial its wine can be.

Opaque ruby color with a medium wide ruby rim. Developed nose of pronounced beefy, smoky dark fruit aromas. Dry, medium(+) body and medium acidity. Medium amount of ripe tannins. Medium(+) intensity of blood orange, herbs and minerals. Very complex and lively wine.

Grapes: 100% Nero di Troia
Alc.: 13.5%


Provenance

Provenance Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon "Rutherford" 2005

Napa Valley, USA

A fairly young winery, the 1999 was their first release. A very Californian wine, but in a good way. Even someone with a tan can have character.

Opaque ruby color with a thin ruby rim. Developed nose of pronounced cherry, herbal and earthy aromas. And then there is that additional layer of jammy plum with hints of vanilla. Dry, medium acidity. Full body and high alcohol. Pronounced intensity of herbs, spices, blackberry, anise and cloves. And again that layer of vanilla and tobacco, that rises slowly like fog from the glass. Medium(+) length. The alcohol is more noticeable than on the Bennett Lane, the finish feels a bit hot. That's why I would recommend to leave it in the bottle for at least 3 more years.

Alc.: 14.9%


14 April 2008
RSS
Poll
Is a taste scale on the bottle to indicate the sweetness level helpful for the consumer?
Yes, any kind of help is needed to crush the myth that all Riesling is sweet
No, sweetness and acidity are too subjective to be categorised

  View Results

Powered by StatPac survey software

Riesling from the Finger Lakes Riesling from the Finger Lakes
It's not just Dr. Konstantin Frank and Hermann Wiemer.
Bottle Haunted by the ghost of Liebfraumilch
Or why is Riesling in the US still misunderstood?
Thermometer Wine storage
Living in constant fear
Aged bottles The virtue of old age in white wines
A memorable tasting in New York City
Rieslingfest Riesling + Sauerkraut 2007
Introducing 2 strangers to the US
Not even $15